Caille Farcie aux Morilles et Châtaignes Stuffed Quail with Morels, Chestnuts & White Beans with Nettle Pistou
Every March I start to think of morel mushrooms, then I think, damn it, I still have to wait until May. Then I wonder, how many dried morels do I have left from last season? Every spring/early summer I bulk up on morels that I hand forage or buy from my forager friends, and dry at least 5 lbs. of fresh morels. When drying morels, I use a simple home dehydrator. Keep in mind that 5 lbs. of fresh morels only yields about 8 oz. of dried mushrooms. This recipe utilizes the last of my dried morels in both the sausage stuffing for the quail as well as the sauce. With spring just around the corner, I felt okay using the last few grams of dried morels, as I know spring is very close, and we will soon be feasting on this year’s fresh morels.
If buying fresh morels to dry, keep an eye on the price, as it will fluctuate from week to week. I typically ask the forager how the season is going and when they anticipate a large flush of mushrooms that will drive the price down. Try to time it when morels are plentiful and at the lowest price of the season. Once dried, keep them in an airtight jar and they will keep indefinitely.
For this recipe, I used Manchester semi-boneless quail. For my customers, I bring these in fresh from my purveyor. You can certainly ask your local butcher to get them for you, or source them directly from the producer here: https://manchesterfarms.com/
These little birds are extremely versatile - they can be quickly sautéed in a pan on the stovetop, grilled, or stuffed and roasted in the oven. I highly recommend giving them a try.
Plan on 1 quail per person if stuffed, 2 if not. Although these quail are small, they are quite rich and filling.
Recipe Serves 4
Please note:
If stuffing is made ahead: About 1 hour 30 minutes from start to table.
If making everything the same day: Plan on 3–4 hours total, mostly passive.
Equipment
Large sauté pan • Cast iron pan • Saucepan • Blender • Fine-mesh strainer • Chef’s knife • Cutting board • Ladle • Mixing bowl • Kitchen twine • Meat thermometer
1. Morels & Sausage Stuffing
Active Time: 30 minutes
Resting Time: 1 hour (or overnight)
Total: 1.5–12 hours
Ingredients
0.25 oz dried morels
8 oz hot water
16 oz Toulouse sausage (or mild garlic sausage)
½ large leek, thinly sliced
1 tbsp fresh thyme
4 oz dry white wine
2 tbsp butter
5 chestnuts, roasted, peeled, chopped
Salt
Method
Place morels in hot water and steep for at least 1 hour.
Strain, reserving the soaking liquid. Press mushrooms dry.
Melt butter in a sauté pan. Add leeks and a pinch of salt. Cook until soft.
Add half the morels and thyme. Cook gently on medium heat.
Deglaze with wine and reduce until nearly dry.
Remove from heat and cool completely.
Combine sausage, leek mixture, and chestnuts. Mix thoroughly.
Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Note:
Let the mixture cool fully before combining with the sausage. This keeps the texture loose.
2. Quail
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 15–20 minutes
Resting Time: 5 minutes
Total: 30 minutes
Ingredients
4 semi-boneless quail
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 tbsp fresh thyme
2 tbsp butter
Method
Preheat oven to 425°F.
Pat quail dry. Lightly coat with olive oil and season on all sides.
Stuff each bird with sausage mixture and truss with kitchen twine.
Heat a cast iron pan with butter and olive oil over medium-high heat.
Place quail breast side up. Add garlic and thyme.
Baste continuously for 2–3 minutes.
Transfer to oven and roast for 10 minutes.
Remove, baste again, adding butter if needed.
Return to oven until stuffing reaches 145°F, about 5–10 minutes more.
Remove and rest in a warm place. Pour off excess fat, reserving the pan.
Note:
Basting is key here. Keep the birds coated in hot fat to prevent drying.
3. Morel Sauce
Active Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes
Total: 30 minutes
Ingredients
Remaining morels
4 oz reserved morel liquid
4 oz white wine
8 oz chicken stock
2 oz heavy cream
1 shallot, chopped
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
Method
Melt butter in the same roasting pan over medium heat.
Add shallots and cook until translucent.
Add remaining morels and a pinch of salt. Cook 2–3 minutes.
Add wine and morel liquid. Reduce until nearly dry.
Add chicken stock and simmer 3–5 minutes.
Add cream and reduce to a light sauce consistency.
Finish with sherry vinegar. Adjust seasoning.
Strain if desired, returning mushrooms to the sauce. Keep warm.
Note:
This is a continuation of the pan, not a new direction. Keep it simple.
4. White Beans
Active Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 2 hours (dried) or 20 minutes (canned)
Total: 20 minutes–2 hours
Ingredients
16 oz dried white beans (or 2 cans, drained)
2 carrots, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 tbsp butter
2 sprigs thyme
4 bay leaves
2 oz white wine
Method
If using dried beans:
Soak overnight. Simmer with bay leaves and smashed garlic until tender, about 2 hours. Salt near the end. Cool in liquid.
To finish:
Melt butter in a saucepan.
Add carrots, celery, and onion. Season lightly and cook for 5 minutes.
Add garlic, thyme, and bay leaves. Cook 2 minutes.
Deglaze with wine and reduce slightly.
Add beans and enough liquid to keep them loose. Warm through.
Note:
Keep just enough liquid in the beans so that they are creamy and saucy, not soupy
5. Nettle Pistou
Active Time: 10 minutes
Resting Time: Optional 20 minutes
Total: 10–30 minutes
Ingredients
Blanched nettles (or parsley/basil)
2 cloves garlic
1 oz lemon juice
4 oz olive oil
Salt and pepper
Method
Bring salted water to a boil. Blanch nettles for 1 minute.
Strain and cool under cold water. Squeeze dry.
Add nettles, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper to the blender.
Blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning.
Hold at room temperature or refrigerate until needed.
Note:
Make this fresh. It should stay bright and sharp.
6. Montage
Final Assembly: 5 minutes
Spoon beans into warm bowls or a serving platter.
Place quail on top or alongside.
Spoon warm morel sauce over the quail.
Finish beans with pistou.
Garnish with chopped chives.
Serve immediately.
