Grand Aïoli au poulet rôti froid et poireaux braisés - Grand Aïoli with Cold Roasted Chicken and Braised Leeks - Meant for Sharing, on Sunday
What a lovely, elevated dish - one that can be a true showstopper at any dinner party. This dish is, above all, a reflection of a morning at the farmers market - gathering what looks best, what’s in season, and what speaks to you. The quality of each ingredient matters here; there’s nowhere to hide - each one is meant to stand on its own. However, at its heart, it’s an ode to aïoli, a sauce both delicious and endlessly versatile. Over time, it’s become so ubiquitous here in the States that it’s almost lost its sense of occasion. If you take the time to procure the best seasonal produce and cook each component just right, a simple platter becomes a Sunday supper. Sourcing beautiful pasture-raised eggs will take your aïoli over the top, giving it a rich yellow-orange hue. Feel free to explore additions like capers or saffron, as aïoli is a blank canvas that can go in many different directions.
Traditionally served with salt cod - nothing wrong with that - here I’ve gone with cold roasted chicken and braised leeks, which are more generous and right at home on the dinner table. I couldn’t resist including a beautiful aged goat cheese, similar to what we’ll find on our upcoming trip to Sommières, along with a warm baguette. Don’t forget to pair it with a nicely chilled bottle of Grenache Blanc or a Southern Rhône blend.
Bon Appétit.
Russ
Serves 4–6
Please note:
If aïoli and chicken are prepared ahead:
About 1 hour from start to table
If making everything the same day:
Plan on 4–6 hours total, mostly passive
Equipment
Large stock pot; Roasting pan; Non-reactive pan; Blender or mortar and pestle; Mixing bowls; Fine-mesh strainer; Colander; Saucepan; Chef’s knife; Cutting board; Slotted spoon; Ladle; Sheet tray; Ice bath
(Optional: thermometer, mandoline, large serving platter)
1. Aïoli
Prepare in advance. Keep cold.
Ingredients
2 egg yolks
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice (add more to taste)
8–10 oz grapeseed oil
Fine sea salt
Note: If using olive oil, be sure it is not bitter. Use half olive oil and half neutral oil.
Method
Add the yolks, garlic, and lemon juice to a blender.
With the motor running, begin adding the oil in a slow, steady stream. Take your time here - adding it too quickly will break the emulsion.
Continue blending until thick and fully emulsified.
Taste and adjust with salt and additional lemon juice as needed.
If the aïoli becomes too thick, loosen it with a few drops of cold water.
Transfer to a container and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.
2. Court-Bouillon
A properly seasoned liquid is essential. It should taste of the sea.
Ingredients
Water
Sea salt
1 cup white wine
¼ onion, sliced
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1 sprig thyme or rosemary
Method
Fill a large stock pot or Dutch oven with water and bring it to a boil.
Season the water generously with salt - it should taste like the sea.
Add the white wine, onion, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, and herbs.
Reduce to a gentle simmer and cook for about 20 minutes to allow the flavors to come together.
Keep warm for blanching.
3. Vegetables
The integrity of each vegetable must remain intact. Cook them separately - do not rush.
To blanch:
Carrots (peeled and halved)
Turnips (halved or quartered)
Green beans
Broccoli rabe
Asparagus
Raw:
Radishes
Belgian endive (halved)
Fennel (optional)
Celery (optional)
Boiled separately:
Waxy potatoes (unpeeled)
Eggs (8 minutes)
Method
Prepare an ice bath and set it nearby.
Working in batches, blanch the vegetables in the court-bouillon, starting with the lightest in color and finishing with the green vegetables.
Begin with the turnips, followed by the carrots, green beans, broccoli rabe, and asparagus.
Cook each just until tender but not fully cooked through, about 1–3 minutes depending on the vegetable.
Remove immediately and transfer to the ice bath to stop the cooking.
Once cooled, transfer to a colander and allow to drain well.
If not serving right away, refrigerate the vegetables. Bring them back to room temperature before serving.
4. Roast Chicken (Optional but Recommended)
Served cold.
5. Braised Leeks
Ingredients
2 leeks (white parts only)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 sprig thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
Optional: chili flake, citrus zest
Method
Trim the leeks, remove the outer layer, and cut in half lengthwise. Rinse well under cold water to remove any grit.
Cut into even sections, keeping the layers intact.
Heat the olive oil in a non-reactive pan until just beginning to smoke.
Place the leeks cut-side down and allow them to brown without moving.
Reduce the heat slightly and cook for about 2 minutes.
Add the garlic, thyme, peppercorns, fennel seeds, and any optional additions. Season lightly with salt.
Remove the pan from the heat and add the white wine. Return to the heat and bring to a simmer.
Cover and cook gently for about 20 minutes, or until the leeks are tender.
Allow to cool in their liquid.
6. Assembly
Arrange the vegetables on a large platter, either grouped by type or loosely composed.
Add the potatoes, eggs, braised leeks, and sliced chicken.
Serve the aïoli generously alongside, not drizzled.
Set out a warm baguette.
Add aged goat cheese on the side if you like.
To Serve
Bring everything to room temperature before serving.
Taste and adjust the seasoning lightly just before it goes to the table.
Serve the aïoli on the side.